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久保嘉男がデザインするヨシオクボ(yoshiokubo)は楽天ファッション・ウィーク東京2023春夏初日の8月29日、2023年春夏コレクションを発表した。テーマは「HITODAMA(人魂)」。
楽天グループによる日本のファッションブランド支援プロジェクト「バイアール(by R)」での発表となった今回。
日本の子供たちが今でも聞く昔話、デザイナー自身も幼少期から伝え聞いた昔話からインスピレーションを膨らませてコレクションを作り上げた。
旅人が夜な夜な目にする空中を浮遊する火の玉。雰囲気のある幽霊のようなその光をカラフルで透明感のあるテキスタイルを使用することで「幽(かす)かな透明感」を表現。
また、コレクションを彩る幾つかの動物や月のグラフィックは、日本でも古くから登場する寓話(ぐうわ)のモチーフ。生地の重ねやレイヤード、色の混じりは、日本古来の伝統的な正装、十二単(ひとえ)から着想を得ている。
日本家屋の象徴と言える組子(くみこ)や透かし彫りのある欄間(らんま)、独特の透け感を保ちながら外部からの視線を隔てる伩。皿の絵柄が透けて見える薄造りの刺身。内と外を曖昧に隔て、透けてみせるのは日本文化の美質のひとつ。
今シーズンのコレクションは日本の精神性を洋の服に落とし込んだ久保嘉男からの提案となっている。
ヨシオクボ(yoshiokubo)2023年春夏コレクションLOOK
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