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イッセイ ミヤケ(Issey Miyake)は2024/2025年秋冬パリコレクション5日目の3月1日、パリのポルト・ドレ宮(Palais de la Porte Dorée)にある国立移民史博物館で、2024/25年秋冬コレクション「What Has Always Been」を発表した。Photos: Courtesy of ISSEY MIYAKE(画像© 2024 ISSEY MIYAKE INC.)
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リリース冒頭に
「それは私たちが創り出す前にすでにある。
太古の昔より連綿と続いてきた
人が布をまとう営みの中に。
身体に沿って流れる布本来が持つ動きの中に。
すぐそばにあり、はるか遠くにもある。
過去にも、この瞬間にも、未来にもある。
時間と空間を超え、歴史や文化さえも超えた
美しさと力強さ、歓びと希望。
そのありのままの姿を
見出だし、感じ、手で探り当てたい。」
と書かれた今シーズン。
布を身体にまとうことに立ち戻り、その本質的な行為を服づくりの起点として探り直し展開。衣服を仕立てることを目的とせず、「まとう」ことに向き合い、繰り返していくなかで見出だした、ドレープ、重なり、折りとねじれ、非対称な構成を取り入れ、そこに偶然に生まれた間(ま)とユーモアを意識し、できるだけ手を加えずに形にした。一定の時代背景や環境にとらわれない、プリミティブでかつ普遍的な行為から生まれた衣服は、いつも新しく感じられる。
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また、今回のコレクションのショーノートには、デザイナー近藤悟史からのメッセージが含まれている、という。
「そのメッセージが書かれている和紙は、ISSEY MIYAKEの過去のコレクションで余った生地の繊維を練り込んでいます。色は繊維本来のものをベースに、染料を入れて調整されています。
紙は4種類の長方形に近い形で、それぞれが今回のコレクションで発表した衣服のパターンの形をしています。右上には、衣服のシリーズ名、アイテム名、アイテム番号が記されています。
ー
身体に布をまとうという行為。
考える前に手が動き出すほど本能的で、
行うごとに見つめ直すほど思慮深い。
そこにはつくり手の想いと記し、
そこには感謝と愛情、
そこには希望と歓び、
ものづくりの美しさに込めて。」
デザイナー近藤悟史とデザインチーム
イッセイ ミヤケ(Issey Miyake)2024/2025年秋冬コレクション ランウェイルック: Frédérique Dumoulin-Bonnet
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イッセイ ミヤケ(Issey Miyake)2024/2025年秋冬コレクション ディテール / ショー画像: Olivier Baco
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