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小林祐と安倍悠治によるイレニサ(IRENISA)が7月11日、都内で2025春夏コレクションを開催した。テーマは可変する空間(Variable Void)。Photos: Courtesy of IRENISA
同ブランドはリリースで今回のコレクションについて次のように説明している。
コレクションノート
「彫刻としての衣服とは何か」を反芻しました。カテゴリーの境界線がないリラックスした中に、緊張感と奥行き、豊かさを入れられないか。自然物と人の手がつくり出す物の「間」を見つめることは、身体と衣服の空間を問う造形の試みでもあります。多くの素材は国内の生産者とオリジナルで作成し、日本の縫製工場で生産しました。グラフィカルなテキスタイルは籠染めという伝統技法で染められ、サマーウールには和紙糸で立体的なストライプ柄を織り込みました。上質なシルクウールサテンには洗い加工で自然なテクスチャーを生み出し、ウールキュプラのクレープ素材は糸の段階でナイロン糸を巻きつけて奥行きのある色合いを出しています。これらには、自然の作り出す造形と人の手による修練の融合があります。「間」を見つめると、自分自身を表現する覚悟を持った人たちが纏う空間があると感じます。美術や演劇、文学の新たな表現に触れた時に、普段の景色が全く違う空間に変わるように。常に分類され所属を問われる中、世界に対してニュートラルであることに豊かさを感じます。私たちの作る衣服が、人々にとって感覚を纏うものであればと願います。
コンセプト
可変する空間(Variable Void)
自らを「服飾造形作家」と捉える小林と安倍は、『衣服と身体の間にある “空間” を造形して、意識をデザインしたい』と話します。『空間を纏った、リラックスした等身大が格好良い。その人から滲み出る狂気、飾らない佇まいや覚悟を感じた時に鳥肌が立つ。そこを引き出したい。』インスピレーションとなったのは、20世紀のイタリアを代表する美術家、ルーチョ・フォンタナ(Lucio Fontana)。彼は「空間主義」を提唱し、キャンバスに切り込みや穴を開けることで、伝統的な絵画の二次元を超え、作品が物理的な空間と対話する新しいアートフォームを創り出しました。フォンタナの放つ、洗練に潜む狂気、型破りな思想から黙示を得た二人は、人の内面に漲る自信にまで向き合っていきます。可変する空間(Variable Void)は、自然と身体に寄り添って変化する造形であり、人の自信や振る舞いにまで影響を与えます。
今シーズンより、レディースがスタートします。長年、二人はレディースの専門領域でも活動しておりました。メンズ/レディースを問わず、数多のパターンワークや素材を自らの手で探求してきたデザイナー、パターンナーとしての蓄積が、カテゴリを超えた新たな表現へと昇華し、空間を纏う形で結実していきます。『シックに潜む皮肉』(CHIC WITH SARCASM)をコンセプトに掲げるIRENISAは、常に既成概念に疑問を持ち、対極の境界に新しいインスピレーションを得てきました。自然と人工、クラフツとモード、生と死、動と静。人も衣服も明確にはカテゴライズできない時代の中で、年齢や性別、身長や体格、肩書きを超えて等身大であること。誰しもが隠し持つ個性や変態的独自性と同時に、『何者でも無い人』を讃えるコレクションなのです。
イレニサ(IRENISA)2025年春夏コレクションLOOK
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